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迪奥被指抄袭马面裙

LearnAndRecord 2022-09-20

近日,迪奥中长半身裙被指抄袭中国传统服饰马面裙事件引发热议。


据了解,该事件持续发酵两周多后,迪奥方面尚未正式回应。


无注释原文:


Dior accused of 'culturally appropriating' centuries-old Chinese skirt


CNN


Dior is facing accusations of cultural appropriation after Chinese social media users -- and protesters outside one of the label's Paris stores -- claimed that a $3,800 skirt was inspired by a centuries-old traditional garment.


The pleated wool and mohair skirt has drawn comparisons to an item of historic Chinese clothing known as a "mamianqun," or "horse face skirt," despite being described by the French fashion house as a "hallmark Dior silhouette."


The controversy began earlier this month, with Chinese netizens and state media outlets accusing the brand of failing to acknowledge the alleged inspiration behind its design. A recent editorial in People's Daily, said that Dior had "shamelessly" misrepresented the skirt as an original creation, describing social media outrage as "completely understandable."


Indignation then spilled onto the streets of Paris last Saturday when a small group of demonstrators gathered outside one of the brand's boutiques on Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Images and videos shared online show protesters holding signs, written in a mixture of French and English, with messages including "Dior, stop cultural appropriation" and "This is a traditional Chinese dress."


Dior did not respond to CNN's request for comment.


According to Global Times, the protest was organized by Paris-based Chinese students, who were joined by demonstrators from other French cities, as well as some from Spain and Italy. Some of the participants appeared to be wearing a form of historical Chinese clothing known as "Hanfu."


Horse face skirts date back to the Song dynasty, which began more than 1,000 years ago, though they were popularized among women during the later Ming and Qing dynasties. The design features pleated sides and openings at both the front and back, making the garments well-suited for horse-riding.


The skirts are often worn by members of China's growing "Hanfu" subculture, along with other outfits resembling the clothing traditionally worn by ethnic-majority Han Chinese before the Qing dynasty.


Dior's skirt is part of its Fall 2022 collection, which the label has described as a "fascinating exploration of past, present and future." The item is no longer available for purchase on the fashion house's website.


According to Global Times, which spoke to several of the protesters, future demonstrations are currently being planned by overseas Chinese students in London and New York City.


It is not the first time in recent years that Dior has sparked outrage in China. In 2019, the label issued an apology over a map of the country, used during a presentation at a Chinese university, that didn't include Taiwan. A statement, posted to the fashion house's Weibo account at the time, blamed an employee for the oversight while voicing support for China's "sovereignty and territorial integrity."


Then, last year, social media users criticized a campaign image by celebrated fashion photographer Chen Man, saying that its choice of a model with "small eyes" perpetuated negative Western stereotypes about Chinese people. Noting the "sinister" expression in her eyes and "gloomy face," an article in the Beijing Daily newspaper at the time asked, "Is this the Asian woman in Dior's eyes?"


Dior withdrew the photo from a Shanghai exhibition and posted a message to social media expressing respect for "the sentiments of the Chinese people."


- ◆ -


注:中文文本为机器翻译仅供参考,并非一一对应

含注释全文:


Dior accused of 'culturally appropriating' centuries-old Chinese skirt


CNN


Dior is facing accusations of cultural appropriation after Chinese social media users -- and protesters outside one of the label's Paris stores -- claimed that a $3,800 skirt was inspired by a centuries-old traditional garment.


迪奥正面临文化挪用的指控,此前中国社交媒体用户——以及该品牌巴黎一家商店外的抗议者——声称一条价值3800美元的裙子的灵感来自一件有数百年历史的传统服装。



accusation


1)表示“指责”,英文解释为“If you make an accusation against someone, you criticize them or express the belief that they have done something wrong.”举个🌰:

He rejects accusations that country music is over-sentimental. 

他反驳了那些说乡村音乐过于伤感的指责。


2)表示“指控”,英文解释为“An accusation is a statement or claim by a witness or someone in authority that a particular person has committed a crime, although this has not yet been proved.”如:people who have made public accusations of rape 对强奸进行了公开指控的人们。



appropriation


表示“拨款;据为己有,挪用”,英文解释为“an amount of money to be used for a particular purpose;the act of taking something for your own use, usually without permission”举个🌰:

The author objected to the appropriation of his story by an amateur filmmaker.

作者反对业余电影制作人盗用他的故事。


📍是不是和appropriate很像?


appropriate作形容词,表示“合适的;恰当的”(suitable, acceptable or correct for the particular circumstances),也可以作动词,熟词僻义,表示“盗用;挪用;占用;侵吞”(to take sth, sb's ideas, etc. for your own use, especially illegally or without permission)举个🌰:

He was accused of appropriating club funds.

他被控盗用俱乐部资金。


另外appropriate作动词也有“拨(专款等)”的意思(to take or give sth, especially money for a particular purpose)举个🌰:

Two million dollars has been appropriated for research into the disease.

已拨款两百万元用于这种疾病的研究。



label


表示“公司;品牌商品;公司名称;公司标志”,英文解释为“a company that produces goods for sale, the goods themselves, or the company's name or symbol”举个🌰:

Her favourite designer label (= maker of expensive clothes) is Armani.

她最喜欢的服装品牌是阿玛尼。


📍此前,戳爷Troye Sivan被传已分手数月?文中就提到,Representatives for Sivan's label EMI declined to comment on rumours of a split. 戳爷的唱片公司EMI代表拒绝对分手传闻发表评论。此处的label指的则是“唱片公司”,英文解释为“a company that produces and sells records, CDs, etc.”。



The pleated wool and mohair skirt has drawn comparisons to an item of historic Chinese clothing known as a "mamianqun," or "horse face skirt," despite being described by the French fashion house as a "hallmark Dior silhouette."


尽管该法国时装公司称其为“迪奥的标志性廓形”,这款带褶皱的羊毛和马海毛裙子已经引起了人们将其与中国的一种历史服装“马面裙”相比较。



pleated


表示“有褶的”,英文解释为“A pleated piece of clothing has pleats in it.”


pleat可以作名词,表示“褶”,英文解释为“a narrow fold in a piece of cloth made by pressing or sewing two parts of the cloth together”,也可以作动词,表示“使……打褶”。



wool


wool /wʊl/ 1)表示“羊毛;动物毛”,英文解释为“the soft, thick hair that grows on the bodies of sheep and some other animals”举个🌰:

Australia is one of the world's main producers of wool.

澳大利亚是世界上主要的羊毛产地之一。


2)表示“毛线;毛料”,英文解释为“thick thread or material that is made from this”举个🌰:

Put on your red wool cardigan - it'll be nice and warm.

穿上你的红色羊毛衫——会又漂亮又暖和。



mohair


表示“马海毛,安哥拉山羊毛;马海毛织物”,英文解释为“a soft wool or cloth made from the outer hair of angora goats (= goats with long soft hair)”如:a mohair jumper 马海毛针织套衫。



house


熟词僻义,用于某些类型的公司名称(图书或设计服装的)中,表示“公司,机构,商行”,英文解释为“a company that is involved in a particular area of business”如:a publishing house 出版社,a fashion house 时装公司。


作动词,表示“是(某物)的贮藏处(或安置处);收藏;安置;为…提供住处,收容;为…提供空间”,英文解释为“to be the place where sth is kept or where sth operates from”举个🌰:

The gallery houses 100 works of modern art.

美术馆收藏了100件现代艺术作品。



hallmark


表示“特征,特点”,英文解释为“a typical characteristic or feature of a person or thing举个🌰:

Simplicity is a hallmark of this design.

简洁是该设计的一个特点。


📍《经济学人》(The Economist)一篇讲述联合利华老板的文章中提到:In the past the hallmark of a good boss was a strategic mind. 以前,一个好老板的标志是战略思维。


silhouette


silhouette /ˌsɪl.uˈet/ 表示“(浅色背景衬托出的)暗色轮廓;剪影,(尤指人脸的)侧影;(人的)体形,(事物的)形状”,英文解释为“the dark outline or shape of a person or an object that you see against a light background;the shape of a person's body or of an object”举个🌰:

The dress is fitted to give you a flattering silhouette.

穿这件连衣裙,你显得更有身段了。



The controversy began earlier this month, with Chinese netizens and state media outlets accusing the brand of failing to acknowledge the alleged inspiration behind its design. A recent editorial in People's Daily, said that Dior had "shamelessly" misrepresented the skirt as an original creation, describing social media outrage as "completely understandable."


争议始于本月早些时候,中国网友和官方媒体指责该品牌未能承认其设计背后的灵感。《人民日报》最近的一篇社论称,迪奥“毫无愧色地”将这条裙子歪曲为原创,称社交媒体的愤怒是“完全可以理解”。



controversy


表示“争议;争论;争辩”,英文解释为“a lot of disagreement or argument about something, usually because it affects or is important to many people”举个🌰:

There was a big controversy surrounding/over the use of drugs in athletics.

体育界对使用违禁药物争议很大。



outlet


outlet/outlets一词经常出现,media outlet / news outlets 都可以表示媒体/新闻机构;


outlet本身表示“商店,商行;销售公司;专卖店;直销店”,英文解释为“An outlet is a shop or organization which sells the goods made by a particular manufacturer or at a discount price, often direct from the manufacturer.”如:a fast-food outlet 快餐店 a retail outlet 零售店,举个🌰:

At the factory outlet you'll find discounted items at up to 75% off regular prices. 

在工厂的直销店里,你会找到比常规价低75%的打折商品。



📍而我们日常生活中常见的“奥特莱斯”商场就是outlets的音译,指的就是品牌直销购物中心。



misrepresent


表示“不如实地叙述(或说明);误传;歪曲;诈称”,英文解释为“to describe falsely an idea, opinion, or situation, often in order to get an advantage”举个🌰:

She accused her opponents of deliberately misrepresenting her as an extremist.

她指责对手故意诬陷她是极端分子。



outrage


表示“怒;义愤;愤慨”,英文解释为“a strong feeling of shock and anger举个🌰:

The judge's remarks caused public outrage.

裁判的话引起了公愤。



Indignation then spilled onto the streets of Paris last Saturday when a small group of demonstrators gathered outside one of the brand's boutiques on Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Images and videos shared online show protesters holding signs, written in a mixture of French and English, with messages including "Dior, stop cultural appropriation" and "This is a traditional Chinese dress."


上周六,愤怒情绪蔓延到了巴黎街头,一小群抗议者聚集在香榭丽舍大街(Avenue des Champs-Élysées)上该品牌的一家旗舰店外。网上分享的图片和视频显示,抗议者举着标语,标语用法语和英语混合书写,上面写着“迪奥,停止文化挪用”和“这是中国传统服装”。



indignation


indignation /ˌɪn.dɪɡˈneɪ.ʃən/ 表示“(由错误或不公正的事激起的)愤怒,愤慨”,英文解释为“anger about a situation that you think is wrong or not fair”。



boutique


boutique /buːˈtiːk/ 表示“卖流行服饰的小商店;时装店;精品店”,英文解释为“a small shop that sells fashionable clothes or other objects”。



mixture


表示“混合物;混合体;混合料”,英文解释为“a substance made from a combination of different substances, or any combination of different things”举个🌰:

Their latest CD is a mixture of new and old songs.

他们最新的光盘中收录了新歌和老歌。



Dior did not respond to CNN's request for comment.


迪奥没有回应美国有线电视新闻网的置评请求。


According to Global Times, the protest was organized by Paris-based Chinese students, who were joined by demonstrators from other French cities, as well as some from Spain and Italy. Some of the participants appeared to be wearing a form of historical Chinese clothing known as "Hanfu."


据《环球时报》(Global Times)报道,抗议活动是由在巴黎的中国学生组织的。来自法国其他城市的抗议者,以及一些来自西班牙和意大利的抗议者也加入了进来。一些参与者似乎穿着一种被称为“汉服”的中国传统服装。


Horse face skirts date back to the Song dynasty, which began more than 1,000 years ago, though they were popularized among women during the later Ming and Qing dynasties. The design features pleated sides and openings at both the front and back, making the garments well-suited for horse-riding.


马面裙可以追溯到1000多年前的宋代,在明清时期女性中流行起来。这种设计的特点是两侧打褶,前后都有开口,非常适合骑马。



garment


garment表示“(一件)衣服,尤用于衣服生产和销售的领域”,英文解释为“ garment is a piece of clothing; used especially in contexts where you are talking about the manufacture or sale of clothes.”如:woollen garments 毛衣,winter/outer garments 冬装/外衣,举个🌰:

Many of the garments have the customers' name tags sewn into the linings.

这些衣服中很多都把顾客的姓名牌缝进衬里中。


🎬电影《酷毙了》(Dope)中的台词提到:I know a dude in the garment district. 我认识一个在服装部的人。



The skirts are often worn by members of China's growing "Hanfu" subculture, along with other outfits resembling the clothing traditionally worn by ethnic-majority Han Chinese before the Qing dynasty.


中国日益增长的“汉服”亚文化的成员经常穿这种裙子,以及其他类似于清朝之前汉人传统服装的服装。



outfit


outfit表示“全套服装,装束(尤指为某场合或目的)”(a set of clothes that you wear together, especially for a particular occasion or purpose)如:a wedding outfit 一套结婚礼服。



resemble


表示“看起来像;显得像;像”,英文解释为“to look like or be similar to another person or thing”举个🌰:

So many hotels resemble each other.

许多酒店看上去都差不多。 



Dior's skirt is part of its Fall 2022 collection, which the label has described as a "fascinating exploration of past, present and future." The item is no longer available for purchase on the fashion house's website.


迪奥的裙子是其2022年秋季系列新品之一,该品牌称之为“对过去、现在和未来的迷人探索”。该裙子已经在迪奥的网站上下架。



collection


熟词僻义,1)表示“作品集”,英文解释为“a group of poems, stories or pieces of music published together as one book or disc”如:a collection of stories by women writers 女作家小说集。


2)表示“(常指同类的)收集物,收藏品”,英文解释为“a group of objects, often of the same sort, that have been collected”。


3)表示“(某位服装设计师的)一系列新装作品”,英文解释为“a range of new clothes produced by one clothes designer”如:the summer/winter collection 夏装/冬装系列。



According to Global Times, which spoke to several of the protesters, future demonstrations are currently being planned by overseas Chinese students in London and New York City.


据《环球时报》采访了几名抗议者,伦敦和纽约的中国留学生目前正在计划未来的抗议活动。


It is not the first time in recent years that Dior has sparked outrage in China. In 2019, the label issued an apology over a map of the country, used during a presentation at a Chinese university, that didn't include Taiwan. A statement, posted to the fashion house's Weibo account at the time, blamed an employee for the oversight while voicing support for China's "sovereignty and territorial integrity."


这已经不是迪奥近年来第一次在中国引发公愤了。2019年,该品牌就一张中国地图发表了道歉声明,该地图在中国一所大学的演讲中被使用,其中不包括台湾省。当时发布在这家时装公司微博账户上的一份声明指责一名员工的疏忽,同时表示支持中国的“主权和领土完整”。



spark


表示“引发”,英文解释为“If one thing sparks another, the first thing cause the second thing to start happening.”举个🌰:

My teacher organized a unit on computer science that really sparked my interest.

我的老师编排了一个关于计算机科学的单元,它真正激发了我的兴趣。


此前,《后浪》和「青年」一文的标题中就用到:Bilibili's May 4th Youth Day video sparks discussion on social media 引发热议。


类似的还有:

📍stir表示“激发,激起(强烈的感情);引起(强烈的反应)”,英文解释为“to make someone have a strong feeling or reaction”,举个🌰:

The poem succeeds in stirring the imagination.

这首诗能够激发起想象力。


📍provoke也表示“激起,引起”,英文解释为“to cause a reaction or feeling, especially a sudden one”,如:provoke debate/discussion 激起辩论/讨论。


📍spur 鼓动;激励;鞭策;刺激;鼓舞”,英文解释为“If one thing spurs you to do another, it encourages you to do it.”举个🌰:

It's the money that spurs these fishermen to risk a long ocean journey in their flimsy boats.

是金钱驱使这些渔民驾驶单薄的小船冒险出海远航。


🎬电影《龙之心3:巫师的诅咒》(Dragonheart 3: The Sorcerer's Curse)中的台词提到:To spur the clans to war. 激励部族发起战争。




oversight


1)表示“监督;监察;监管”,英文解释为“responsibility for a job or activity and for making sure it is being done correctly”举个🌰:

Who has oversight of genetic testing?

谁对基因测试有监管责任?


2)表示“失察,疏忽,疏漏”,英文解释为“a mistake made because of a failure to notice something”举个🌰:

They claimed it was simply (an) oversight.

他们称这不过是个疏忽。



sovereignty


sovereignty /ˈsɒvrəntɪ/ 表示“主权,统治权”,英文解释为“the power of a country to control its own government”



Then, last year, social media users criticized a campaign image by celebrated fashion photographer Chen Man, saying that its choice of a model with "small eyes" perpetuated negative Western stereotypes about Chinese people. Noting the "sinister" expression in her eyes and "gloomy face," an article in the Beijing Daily newspaper at the time asked, "Is this the Asian woman in Dior's eyes?"


然后,去年,社交媒体用户批评了著名时尚摄影师陈漫的一张宣传照片,称其选择的“小眼睛”模特迎合了西方对中国人的负面刻板印象。《北京日报》当时的一篇文章注意到她眼中的“险恶”表情和“脸色暗沉”,问道,“这是迪奥眼中的亚洲女人吗?”



perpetuate


perpetuate /pəˈpɛtjʊˌeɪt/ 表示“使永久化;使持久化;使持续”,英文解释为“to make sth such as a bad situation, a belief, etc. continue for a long time”如:to perpetuate injustice 持续造成不公正。


📺美剧《我为喜剧狂》(30 Rock)第二季中的台词提到文中的两个词,perpetuate和stereotype:I don't want to perpetuate any black stereotypes. 字面意思:我不想加深任何黑人的成见;字幕组处理为:我不想听这些陈词滥调。



⚠️区分:perpetrate /ˈpɜːpətreɪt/ 表示“犯(罪);做(错事);干(坏事)”(to commit a crime or do sth wrong or evil),如:to perpetrate a crime/fraud 犯罪/行骗。


📍 perpetrator /ˈpɜːpətreɪtə(r)/表人,指的是“作恶者;犯罪者”,英文解释为“someone who does something morally wrong or illegal”。


📺美剧《疑犯追踪》(Person of Interest)的片头经典台词就有一句:But victim or perpetrator, if your number is up, we'll find you.(但无论是受害人还是行凶者,只要你的号码被列出来,我们就会找到你。)




stereotype


表示“模式化形象;成见;刻板印象”,英文解释为“A stereotype is a fixed general image or set of characteristics that a lot of people believe represent a particular type of person or thing.”举个🌰:

There's always been a stereotype about successful businessmen. 

对成功的商人们总有一种成见。


sinister


sinister /ˈsɪnɪstə/ 表示“不祥的,凶兆的;阴险的;邪恶的”,英文解释为“making you feel that something evil, dangerous, or illegal is happening or will happen”举个🌰:

There is a sinister side to these events.

这些事件有邪恶的一面。



gloomy


1)表示“前景黯淡的;悲观的”,英文解释为“not expecting or believing anything good in a situation”;


2)表示“忧郁;愁闷;沮丧的”,英文解释为“unhappy and without hope”如:a gloomy person/expression 一个愁容满面的人/一个沮丧的表


3)表示“灰暗的,幽暗的”,英文解释为“dark in a way that is unpleasant and makes it difficult to see”举个🌰:

What gloomy weather we're having!

今天天气太阴沉了!


📍《经济学人》(The Economist)一篇针对《没有工作的世界》的书评文章中提到:This gloomy view of the impact of technology is plausible. 这种对技术影响的悲观论调似乎言之有理。



Dior withdrew the photo from a Shanghai exhibition and posted a message to social media expressing respect for "the sentiments of the Chinese people."


迪奥从上海展览中撤掉了这张照片,并在社交媒体上发布了一条消息,表达了对“中国人民情感”的尊重。



sentiment


表示“观点;意见;看法;情绪”,英文解释为“a thought, opinion, or idea based on a feeling about a situation, or a way of thinking about something”举个🌰:

I don't think she shares my sentiments.

我认为她不同意我的观点。


- 今日盘点 -

accusation

appropriation

label

pleated

wool

mohair

house

hallmark

silhouette

controversy

outlet

misrepresent

outrage

indignation

boutique

mixture

garment

outfit

resemble

collection

spark

oversight

sovereignty

perpetuate

stereotype

sinister

gloomy

sentiment


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写在七周年的话

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